Parawing · Sizing Guide

Parawing Size for Your Weight: The Complete Guide

Most riders use a wing chart to pick their first parawing — and end up overpowered. Parawings fly above you rather than being swung, which means they generate power more directly and run 20–30% smaller than an equivalent wing. Here's how to get the right size.

By The Quiver · Updated May 2026 · ~8 min read · Sources: Duotone · Ozone · Reedin

Why Parawing Sizing Is Different

The first thing to understand is that a parawing is not a smaller wing. The two tools generate power in completely different ways, and mixing up their sizing charts is the single most common mistake new parawing riders make.

A hand-wing is held out in front of you and swung through the air. The rider controls power by adjusting the angle and arc of the swing. A parawing, by contrast, flies overhead on a short line — closer in concept to a foil kite than to a wing. Because it flies above the rider rather than beside them, it pulls rather than pushes, and it generates lift far more directly. Less area is needed to achieve the same driving force.

Key insight

A 75 kg intermediate rider in 18 knots of wind needs approximately 3.0 m of parawing — not the 4.5 m that a wing sizing chart would suggest for the same conditions. Anchored to Duotone Slick, Ozone Flux, and Reedin Wingbat catalogues.

The result is a tighter, more responsive size ladder. Duotone's Slick parawing runs in just five sizes — 1.6, 1.9, 2.5, 3.5, and 4.5 m — covering the full wind range from nuking 35+ kt to marginal 8 kt sessions on a single tool. Compare that to a kite or wing quiver, which typically needs four or five pieces to cover the same range.

Parawings are also significantly easier to depower than wings. If the wind spikes, you drop the parawing forward and it immediately spills power — there's no swinging motion to manage. This means the skill penalty for being slightly over-sized is lower than on a wing or kite, though it's still better to be correctly sized for control and efficiency.

Get Your Exact Parawing Size

Enter your weight and wind speed. The Quiver calculates your size from real brand catalogue data — Duotone Slick, Ozone Flux, and Reedin Wingbat.

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Parawing Sizing Chart by Weight & Wind

The table below is built from the same data that powers the calculator — anchored to the published size ladders of the three main brands in the category. Use it as a starting point; always cross-check with local riders and your dealer before buying.

Rider weight 8–11 kts
(marginal)
12–15 kts
(light)
16–20 kts
(primary)
21–25 kts
(strong)
26–30 kts
(gusty)
30+ kts
(nuking)
<65 kg 3.5 m 3.0 m 2.5 m 2.2 m 1.8 m 1.6 m
65–80 kg 4.0 m 3.5 m 3.0 m 2.5 m 2.2 m 1.8 m
80–95 kg 4.5 m 4.0 m 3.3 m 2.8 m 2.4 m 2.0 m
>95 kg 5.0 m 4.5 m 3.8 m 3.0 m 2.6 m 2.2 m

Highlighted column = typical 16–20 kt primary session. Advanced and expert riders size down one step from the intermediate recommendation above. Sources: Duotone Slick, Ozone Flux, Reedin Wingbat catalogues.

How to read this table

Find your weight band in the left column, then track across to the wind range that matches your typical session. The highlighted 16–20 kt column is the sweet-spot for most intermediate riders and is the size most parawing owners buy first. If your spot is consistently below 12 knots, consider whether a wing foil setup might serve you better — marginal wind parawing riding is technically demanding and less forgiving than wings in the same breeze.

Category note

Parawing is still a young discipline. Brand catalogues continue to evolve and new sizes enter the market each season. These recommendations are anchored to current production ladders but always verify with a local dealer or instructor before purchasing.

How Skill Level Affects Your Parawing Size

One of the more counterintuitive things about parawing sizing — compared to kiting especially — is that the skill modifier is smaller. Beginners and intermediate riders typically use the same size. Here's why.

On a kite, an overpowered beginner faces a lofting risk that scales with size. Bigger kite in gusty conditions = real danger. The skill modifier on kite sizing is steep and safety-driven. On a parawing, the drop-and-depower mechanism is much more accessible — you let it go forward and it stalls instantly. The consequence of being slightly over-sized is getting yanked rather than lofted.

Advanced and expert riders do size down one step from the chart above. Not for safety reasons, but because a more experienced foiler can work a smaller parawing more efficiently, extending the top-end wind range before the session becomes too powered-up to enjoy.

Beginner
Chart size
No adjustment. Focus on getting foiling time.
Intermediate
Chart size
Primary recommendation. This is the table above.
Advanced
One size down
e.g. 75 kg / 18 kts → 2.5 m instead of 3.0 m.
Expert
One size down
Same adjustment as advanced. Max wind range extension.

Parawing Board Sizing

The parawing board sits between a wing foil board and a downwind board in its design brief: longer than a wing board for paddle-up entry, narrower than a pure SUP foil board because you're not generating speed through paddling alone — the parawing is pulling you up. Duotone describes parawing boards as occupying the space between their wing and downwind shapes.

Volume is calculated the same way as most foil disciplines: start with your body weight in kilograms and add a skill-based offset. The offset is larger for beginners (more float = more time to re-pump after touchdowns) and smaller for experts (less volume = lower drag in the water).

Skill level Volume formula 75 kg example Length range Width range
Beginner BW + 25–40 L 100–115 L 6'0"–7'4" 20"–24"
Intermediate BW + 15–30 L 90–105 L 5'8"–6'10" 19"–23"
Advanced BW + 10–20 L 85–95 L 5'2"–6'2" 18"–22"
Expert BW + 5–15 L 80–90 L 4'10"–5'10" 17"–20"

The water conditions adjustment

Conditions matter more for parawing boards than for most other foil disciplines, because touchdowns happen more frequently when you're learning. In choppy water, add 3–5 L above the base recommendation. You need that extra float to pump back up after a crash without having to drag yourself back onto the board.

  • Flat water / glass: use the base volume for your skill level
  • Choppy / windswell: add 3 L for re-pump margin
  • Heavy chop / storm chop: add 5 L — crashes will be more frequent

One important distinction: swell does not help you on a parawing board the way it does on a surf foil. You're not catching waves — you're holding the parawing. The conditions selector affects water surface roughness and therefore re-pump difficulty, not wave energy.

Board Size Calculator

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The Brand Lineup

Parawing is a small category with a handful of serious players. Here's the honest rundown on each — where they sit, who they're for, and how their size ladders compare.

Duotone
Slick Parawing
The benchmark. Five sizes (1.6 / 1.9 / 2.5 / 3.5 / 4.5 m). Mainstream-accessible. Designed to integrate with Duotone's full foil ecosystem. Wide beginner–intermediate sweet spot.
Ozone
Flux Parawing
More kite-influenced construction — Ozone's decades of power-kite expertise shows. Slightly more nuanced depower feel. Good choice if you have a kite background.
Reedin
Wingbat
More aggressive profile, higher aspect. Aimed at experienced foilers who want to push the performance ceiling. Less beginner-friendly but capable in the right hands.

The category is young enough that new entrants appear each season — F-One, Cabrinha, and others have announced or released parawing products as of 2025–26. The size ladders above are anchored to Duotone, Ozone, and Reedin because those catalogues are the most established and publicly documented.

Within a brand, the size increments matter. Duotone's jump from 2.5 m to 3.5 m is a large step — a 75 kg rider might find 3.5 m in 18 kts moderately overpowered and 2.5 m slightly underpowered. If your primary wind is in that awkward range, a 3.0 m from another brand (or choosing by your specific conditions) may serve you better. The calculator models this by giving you a range, not just a single number.

Parawing vs. Wing Foiling — Which Should You Learn First?

If you're new to foiling entirely, this question comes up a lot. Here's the honest answer.

Wing foiling has more going for it as a first discipline. There are more instructors, more used gear at reasonable prices, a much larger community, and years of accumulated beginner resources. The learning curve on a wing is well-documented and manageable.

Parawing is an excellent second discipline for someone who already foils on a wing or kite. The overhead pull is a different feeling to manage, but if your foil skills are established, the parawing unlocks a unique experience — packable, low-footprint, able to session in conditions that are too gusty or underpowered for a wing. Many riders describe it as the most "free" feeling of any wind-foil discipline.

The verdict

Complete beginner → start on a wing. Already foiling → parawing is worth trying. The quiver combination of wing (primary) + parawing (light wind / travel) is becoming increasingly common among serious foilers.

FAQ

What size parawing do I need for 70 kg?
At 70 kg (in the 65–80 kg band): 4.0 m in 8–11 kts, 3.5 m in 12–15 kts, 3.0 m in 16–20 kts (the most common primary size), 2.5 m in 21–25 kts, 2.2 m in 26–30 kts, 1.8 m in nuking conditions. Use the free calculator to get a personalised recommendation with your exact conditions.
Can I use my wing foil board for parawing?
Yes, with caveats. A high-volume wing foil board (120 L+) works fine for learning — the extra float helps with paddle-up and re-pump. As you progress, a dedicated parawing board in the 85–110 L range (at 75 kg intermediate level) gives better performance: slightly longer for paddle-up momentum, narrower for lower drag once you're foiling. Your wing foil board is a fine starting point.
What minimum wind do I need for a parawing?
Most parawings become usable from around 8–10 knots on a large (4.0–5.0 m) size. Below that, the wing doesn't generate enough overhead lift to pull you onto the foil efficiently. The sweet spot for most intermediate riders is 14–22 knots, where the balance between power and control is best. In marginal winds under 10 kts, wing foiling is generally a better experience.
Why is my parawing size smaller than my wing size?
Because of how the overhead geometry changes power delivery. A hand-wing is swung through the air — the swing arc generates apparent wind and power. A parawing flies above you on a fixed line and pulls directly. It generates lift far more efficiently, so less area produces the same driving force. Think of it as a higher efficiency-per-square-metre tool.
Is parawing easier to learn than wing foiling?
Neither is strictly easier. Parawings depower instantly — drop it forward and it stalls — which some riders find more intuitive than managing a wing's power. But the overhead pull requires different body mechanics, and there's far less instructional infrastructure. Wing foiling has more instructors, more used gear, and a larger beginner community. If you're starting from zero, wing foiling has a lower barrier to entry. If you're already a foiler, parawing is accessible to pick up.
What's the difference between a 3.0 m and 3.5 m parawing?
At 75 kg in 18 kts, 3.0 m is your primary — powered but manageable. The 3.5 m is for lighter wind (12–15 kts) or heavier riders in 16–20 kts. The half- metre step between sizes is significant enough to feel: you'll notice it in pull force, top-end wind range, and how early you get onto the foil. On the Duotone Slick ladder, the gap from 2.5 m to 3.5 m is a big jump — the calculator's range output helps you identify when you're in that in-between zone.

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